LC / LE Leak, Drain & Control-Board Specialists
Same-day Samsung dishwasher repair across the Twin Cities — DW80, StormWash, Linear Wash, and Bespoke. Leak-sensor diagnostics, drain pumps, circulation pumps, door-latch microswitches, and main / UI boards. OEM Samsung parts, 1-year written warranty. Part of our full Samsung appliance repair coverage.
Leak calls first
Same-day priority.
OEM Samsung parts
Pumps, sensors and more.
1-year warranty
Parts and labor in writing.
Sensor-aware diagnostics
We test before quoting.
Why a specialist
Samsung dishwashers throw LC / LE leak codes often — and many times there's no actual leak. The leak sensor itself dries out and goes out-of-spec. A generalist replaces parts blind; we test the sensor circuit and the leak path separately, so you don't pay for a door gasket when the problem is a $40 sensor.
We use OEM Samsung parts and carry common leak sensors, drain pumps, door-latch microswitches, fill valves, thermistors and heating elements. Main and UI boards, circulation pumps and spray-arm assemblies are ordered for your model if not on the truck.
Common repairs
A very common Samsung dishwasher call. The leak sensor under the tub trips on either an actual drip (door gasket, sump grommet, drain hose) or a dried-out / corroded sensor giving a false LC. We diagnose which one before quoting — it is often the sensor rather than a leak.
Samsung DW80 drain pumps fail at the impeller and the motor windings. We pull the lower filter assembly, replace the OEM drain pump, and verify the air-gap / garbage-disposal connection.
Worn circulation pump or a cracked diverter cause dirty dishes and weak spray-arm rotation. We swap the OEM circulation pump and the spray arms when worn.
Door-latch microswitches wear and stop signaling the main board the door is closed. Symptom: cycle won't start or stops 5 minutes in. OEM latch assembly on the truck.
AC / AE communication faults between the main and sub PCB, or a totally unresponsive touch panel. We use OEM main boards and UI assemblies, ordered for your model if not on the truck.
Heating element opens or thermistor goes out of range. Dishes come out wet, rinse water never gets hot. We replace the OEM heater and thermistor as a kit.
Reference
| Code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| LC / LE | Leak detected — real leak OR dried-out leak sensor | Call us — diagnose before parts |
| OE / OC | Overfill — water level too high | Call us — fill valve or sensor |
| 4E / 4C | Water-supply fault — saddle valve or kinked hose | DIY: check shutoff; persists → call us |
| 5E / 5C | Drain fault — pump, hose, or disposal plug | DIY: remove disposal plug; persists → pump swap |
| AC / AE | Communication fault between main and sub PCB | Call us — board diagnostic |
| bE / 6E | Stuck button on touch panel | Call us — UI board |
| tE | Thermistor fault — won't heat / won't dry | Call us — heater + thermistor kit |
| HC / HE | Heater circuit fault | Call us — heating element |
Coverage
Diagnostics
Service area
FAQ
LC / LE is the leak-sensor circuit telling the main board it detected water in the base pan. Sometimes there's a real leak — door gasket, sump grommet, drain hose connection, or fill-valve fitting. Other times, the leak sensor itself has dried out and gone out-of-spec, throwing a false LC. We diagnose which one before quoting parts. Sensor swap is around $199–$245; an actual leak repair is $245–$365 depending on the source.
Standing water in the bottom usually means the drain pump can't push water out. Three usual suspects: (1) the dishwasher drain line is connected to a garbage disposal that still has the knock-out plug installed (very common on new installs), (2) the drain pump impeller is jammed with a piece of glass or food debris, or (3) the drain pump motor itself has failed. We pull the lower filter, check the line, and swap the pump if needed — most are single-visit.
Most Samsung dishwasher repairs land between $189 and $465 all-in (parts and labor) with our 1-year written warranty. Leak-sensor swap $199–$245; actual leak repair $245–$365; drain pump $235–$365; door-latch microswitch $189–$295; main / UI board $285–$465; circulation pump (big job) $385–$565. The $149 trip fee is credited toward the repair when you approve it.
Almost always the door-latch microswitch. When the cycle starts the main board reads the latch state; if the switch flickers or opens partway through, the cycle pauses. OEM latch assembly is on the truck and the swap is usually under an hour.
Yes — DW80R9950 (Linear Wash) and StormWash (DW80B / DW80T) units are in our regular rotation. We service the position sensor on the Linear Wash zone bar, the third-rack spray jet, the auto-release door (AutoRelease drying), and the circulation / drain pumps that are common across the platform.
We are open 7am–9pm every day, and same-day appointments are available across the Twin Cities and Central MN — call early. Leak calls are prioritized.
Book Samsung dishwasher repair today
Leak calls get priority — we are open 7am–9pm every day, so call early for a same-day window. OEM Samsung parts, 1-year warranty.
Samsung dishwashers talk to you through short two-character codes on a small display, or through a pattern of lights on the lower-cost panels. Those codes are useful, but they describe what the control saw, not what broke. An LC or LE leak message means the leak sensor reported water. It does not mean the door gasket has failed. A drain code means the water did not leave in the time the control expected. It does not tell you whether the pump, the hose or the disposal is at fault. The visit is about separating the message from the cause.
Because many Samsung dishwashers hide their sensors under the tub and behind the lower panel, we begin with the things you can see and the things that are cheap to rule out, and only then open the base. Our Samsung dishwasher error codes page lists the full set, and the LC code write-up explains the one most Samsung owners meet first.
Samsung leak codes cause more worry than almost any other dishwasher fault, and for good reason: the machine stops and a message appears about a leak.
Detergent foam or a splash that reaches the base can trip the sensor once. After drying the base, the code clears and does not return. Hand-dish soap is the usual cause of the foam.
If a unit is not level, or if it sits tilted after a countertop or cabinet change, water can pool in the base and trip the sensor. Check levelness and the position of the hoses before looking at parts.
A loose hose clamp, a worn door seal, a pump or sump seal can all drip into the base. The leak is slow enough that you may not see water on the kitchen floor for days. If LC returns after the base is dry, we find the wet path with a dry-run and a careful look, and we replace the leaking part.
The sensor sits in a wet area and its connection can corrode. A corroded connector will read as water when there is none. We test the sensor circuit instead of guessing, and we explain what we found.
Samsung drain codes show up as 5E or 5C on common models, along with standing water in the tub. When a Samsung dishwasher is connected to a garbage disposal, the first suspect is the disposal's dishwasher inlet. A disposal that was replaced, or a new installation, ships with a small plug inside that inlet. It has to be knocked out before water can pass. If it was left in, the dishwasher fills and washes, then cannot drain. That is a quick check and does not need a new pump.
Next in line is the drain hose behind the machine. A hose pinched during installation, or one that has lost its high loop, will drain slowly or let sink water siphon back. Some kitchens use an air gap on the countertop. A grease-clogged air gap can block the dishwasher without any sign at the sink. Once the plumbing is cleared, we check the filter and the pump impeller for glass and food debris before replacing anything.
The Samsung 5E error page and the not draining guide go into more detail.
These suggest the machine is not getting enough water. We check the shutoff valve, the supply line for kinks, the inlet screen and then the inlet valve. In a Minnesota winter, a supply line on an exterior wall can run very cold, and in unheated seasonal homes can freeze, so a fill fault after a cold snap is worth mentioning when you call.
These point to the heating circuit or the temperature sensing. Scale from hard water builds on the element and the sensor and can cause the same symptoms. We inspect both before deciding what to replace.
On Samsung models that finish with a fan or an automatic door release, a blocked vent or a failed fan will leave dishes wet. Filling the rinse aid dispenser is the cheapest thing to try first.
A panel that does not respond or a code that points at buttons may be a board or panel fault. We check the connection and the panel separately from the main board.
| Situation | What we usually advise |
|---|---|
| LC from a spill, an unlevel unit or a wet sensor | Repair or reset. Often a low-cost fix. |
| Drain pump, inlet valve, door latch or hose | Repair. The machine is generally worth keeping. |
| Circulation pump, plus worn spray arms, on a unit past about 8 to 10 years | Compare the total to a new unit. |
| Main or panel board failure on an older machine | Weigh against a new dishwasher; it depends on the age and the rest of the machine. |
| Cracked tub or rusted base | Replace. |
The $149 trip fee is credited toward the repair when you approve it.
If a Samsung dishwasher sits crooked, water can pool where the sensor can see it.
Hand soap makes foam that can overflow into the base and mimic a leak.
Run the disposal and ask whether the dishwasher knockout plug has been removed. Our disposal repair page covers what to look for.
Our filter cleaning guide explains the steps.
Sometimes. If a spill or foam caused it and the base dried, it may not return. If it does come back, a real leak or a sensor fault is likely.
No. Stop using it and cut power at the breaker until the cause is found, because a real leak will damage the floor and cabinet.
A worn door latch switch or a sensor reading out of range is the most common reason. We test the latch and the sensors before replacing the board.
On the side of the door or inside the tub edge. It starts with DW on most models. Our Samsung leakage error guide can help once you have it.
