When the drum won't turn but the motor still runs, the drive belt has snapped. (A motor that only hums with no spin points to a seized idler or motor instead.) It's the most common dryer repair after vent cleaning, the part is $15–$25, and it's a one-hour job with hand tools.
Many dryer symptoms can be diagnosed and fixed on the first visit. Flat $149 trip fee, credited toward the repair when you approve it.
Need dryer repair? Call 7am–9pm, every day.
Step-by-step
Unplug the dryer at the wall. For gas models, also close the gas shutoff valve behind the unit.
Close the door firmly and press start. If you hear nothing at all, the door switch or thermal fuse is suspect — test it unplugged with a meter. If the motor runs but the drum doesn't turn, continue to step 3. If it only hums, suspect a seized idler or motor.
Most dryers open via a top panel (pop the lint screen housing first, then 2 screws under it, then lift the top forward like a car hood) or a front panel (2 screws in the toe-kick, then tilt the front panel out). Check your model's service guide.
The drive belt is a thin (~1/4" wide) loop that wraps around the drum, the idler pulley, and the motor pulley. If you see it lying broken in the bottom of the cabinet, that's your answer.
The idler is a small wheel on a spring-loaded arm that keeps tension on the belt. Spin it with a finger — should turn freely with no roughness. Grinding or seized = replace ($15–$25 part).
Wrap the new belt around the drum (grooves facing the drum). Then route it through the idler and around the motor pulley — exact path is in your service guide. Spin the drum by hand to confirm it turns smoothly.
Close the cabinet, plug in (open gas), run a 2-minute air-fluff cycle. Drum should turn smoothly with no thumping, no squealing. If you hear thumping, the drum rollers are also worn — order them and do that next.
Stop and call
Safety + model triggers
Gas dryer — when in there, the gas valve and igniter are in your way.
One slip damages the gas valve coil or the supply line; not worth the risk for an hour of labor.
Motor hums and trips the breaker on every start attempt.
Failed motor capacitor or shorted winding — keep cycling and you'll cook the windings.
Burning smell, scorched belt smell, or smoke when you tried to start it.
Seized drum bearing scorching the belt — fire risk, stop now.
Stacked unit, closet install, or compact 24" Bosch / LG WashTower.
Belt routing on stacked units requires unstacking — not safely DIY.
Other reasons to call
FAQs
Snapped drive belt. The motor still spins, but with no belt connecting it to the drum, the drum just sits there. Open the cabinet and you'll find the broken belt at the bottom.
10–15 years on average. Heavy use (multiple loads/day) and overloaded loads shorten that significantly. Belts are wear items, not failures — expect to replace one in the dryer's lifetime.
Belt only: $189–$260 all-in. Belt + idler: $220–$320. Belt + idler + drum rollers: $280–$400. Our flat $149 trip fee is credited toward the repair when you approve it.
No. The motor will overheat trying to spin a stuck drum and may damage windings or trip the thermal overload. Air-dry your clothes or hit a laundromat for a day.
Yes if you're handy — it's an hour of work and a $20 part. Tutorials for your specific model are on YouTube. If you've never opened an appliance, the labor cost on a tech call is reasonable for the peace of mind.
Related service
A broken dryer can quickly become more than just an inconvenience — wet laundry piles up fast, drying times increase energy bills, and overheating dryers can even create fire hazards. At Central Minnesota Appliance Repair, we provide fast, professional dryer repair Minneapolis services for homeowners, landlords, property managers, and businesses across Minneapolis, St. Paul and the Twin Cities.
See dryer repair detailsLocal service area
More guides
When the motor runs and the drum does not turn, the drive belt has usually broken or slipped off. The motor spins freely without moving the drum. Less often, the idler pulley has seized or the belt tensioner has failed. If the dryer makes no sound at all, look at the door switch or the power supply instead.
Central Minnesota Appliance Repair finds the same few causes on dryers in Minneapolis, St. Paul and the surrounding metro. A quick test tells you which group you are in: unplug the dryer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If it spins with almost no resistance, the belt is almost certainly broken. If it is hard to turn or scrapes, a roller or bearing is the problem.
| What you notice | Likely cause | DIY-safe check | When to call |
|---|---|---|---|
| Motor runs, drum spins freely by hand | Broken drive belt | Unplug, turn the drum by hand | You are not comfortable opening the cabinet |
| Squealing or thumping, drum turns hard | Worn drum rollers or glides | Unplug and turn the drum by hand, feel for roughness | Any grinding, or it will not turn by hand |
| Drum turns but stops mid-cycle | Overheating motor or loose belt | Empty the lint trap, check the vent | It repeats after the vent is clear |
| Nothing happens, no hum | Door switch, thermal fuse or start switch | Press the door firmly and retry | Controls light up but the motor does nothing |
| Hum and no turn, breaker trips | Failed motor or motor start switch | Do not keep trying; reset the breaker once at most | Always |
| New belt snaps again soon | Seized idler, bad roller or drum hang-up | Check for a clothes jam behind the drum | Always |
The $149 trip fee is credited toward the repair when you approve it.
Indirectly, yes. A blocked vent makes the dryer run hot and long, and that heat and strain wear belts, rollers and bearings faster. Overheating can also trip the thermal protector on the motor, which stops the drum mid-cycle until the motor cools down.
Winter makes this worse in Minnesota. Long vent runs through cold basements and outside walls let moist air condense and lint pack tightly, especially where the duct turns. Clean the lint trap every load and have the vent cleaned from the dryer to the exterior hood once a year. If the dryer has been taking longer than normal, see dryer takes too long first.
We unplug the dryer and close the gas valve on gas models before opening anything. You should do the same if you look inside yourself.
The belt is rarely the only part to check. A belt that snapped from a seized idler or worn rollers will snap again if only the belt is replaced.
If the belt looks fine, we check the door switch, the start switch and the motor itself with a meter before ordering anything.
We look for an obstruction behind the drum and check airflow at the vent, because heat from a blocked vent shortens the life of every part.
You get the cause and the price first. If you approve, the $149 trip fee is credited toward the repair.
In most cases, yes. A belt, idler or roller repair is a modest repair on a machine with a simple design, and dryers usually last a long time when they are vented properly. A repair is harder to justify on a very old dryer with a failing motor or a drum with several worn parts, where the cost can approach a replacement.
Check the published ranges in our dryer repair cost guide. To book a visit, see dryer repair. In Minneapolis, a belt-specific page is at dryer belt repair in Minneapolis. If the dryer spins but makes noise, read dryer making noise, and if it spins but stays cold, use the dryer not heating guide.
Unplug the dryer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If it spins almost freely, the belt has likely broken. You may also hear the motor running normally while the load never tumbles.
A weak start switch, an overheating motor or a stretched belt can all cause that. Check that the lint trap and vent are clear, then call if it keeps stopping.
No. A running motor against a stuck drum can overheat and trip the breaker or damage the motor. Unplug the dryer and diagnose the cause first.
A heavy wet load can stall a worn belt, and a sock or small item behind the drum can jam it. Remove the load, unplug and check before trying again.
Need dryer repair? Call 7am–9pm, every day.
