1. Door switch failed open (most common)
What it is: Plunger broken, micro switch worn, or harness pinched. Dryer is fully dead or doesn't respond to the start button. Found on all Kenmore platforms.
Fix: Replace OEM door switch + plunger, verify clean click and full circuit close.
Typical all-in: $185–$285 all-in
2. Thermal fuse blown (Whirlpool-built 110 / 110.6+ and Frigidaire-built 417)
What it is: On these platforms the thermal fuse is in series with the entire motor circuit — when it blows from a clogged vent, the dryer goes completely dead, not just no-heat. Look for it on the blower housing.
Fix: Clear vent restriction (mandatory), replace OEM thermal fuse + high-limit kit, verify temp rise.
Typical all-in: $215–$345 all-in
3. Push-to-start switch worn out
What it is: Click but no motor start. The momentary switch has worn contacts. Common at year 6–10.
Fix: Replace OEM push-to-start switch, verify clean make.
Typical all-in: $185–$285 all-in
4. Drive motor seized or start winding open
What it is: Hum then click out — the motor's start-winding has opened or the centrifugal switch on the motor is stuck. Drum is hard to turn by hand.
Fix: Replace OEM drive motor (typically with belt + idler pulley as a service kit).
Typical all-in: $345–$485 all-in
5. Main control board / timer failed (Elite HE, late model 110)
What it is: On Kenmore Elite HE (LG-built) and late electronic 110s, the main PCB can fail to send the motor relay signal. Display lights, dryer doesn't run.
Fix: Replace OEM control board, verify start cycle.
Typical all-in: $285–$485 all-in