1. Lid switch / door lock failed (most common)
What it is: Top-load lid switch worn or door lock failed on front-load — washer won't enter spin without lock confirmation. Often paired with dL / F5 codes.
Fix: Replace OEM lid switch or door lock assembly, verify lock signal.
Typical all-in: $215–$315 all-in
2. Drive belt broken or off
What it is: Front-load 796 (LG-built) and many 110 top-loads: belt snaps or jumps the pulley. Drum spins freely by hand.
Fix: Replace OEM belt, verify tracking and tension.
Typical all-in: $245–$365 all-in
3. Motor coupler chewed (Whirlpool direct-drive 110)
What it is: Small white plastic isolator between motor and transmission shears. Washer fills, drains, but agitator and tub don't move. Loud grinding for a few cycles before failure.
Fix: Replace OEM motor coupler (3-pack — replace all isolators), verify drive.
Typical all-in: $215–$315 all-in
4. Shifter actuator failed (VMW / Oasis 110.27)
What it is: The shifter motor / actuator on top of the gearcase fails to shift between agitate and spin. Washer agitates but won't spin (or vice versa).
Fix: Replace OEM shifter assembly, verify mode change in service test.
Typical all-in: $345–$485 all-in
5. Main board motor-relay failed
What it is: Less common — board sends spin command, motor relay doesn't close. Confirmed only after switch / belt / coupler test clean.
Fix: Replace OEM main board, verify cycle.
Typical all-in: $345–$485 all-in