1. Control lock on or clock not set
What it is: After a power outage many ovens won't run until the clock is set. A control lock also blocks every button.
Fix: Set the clock and hold the lock button 3–5 seconds.
Typical all-in: DIY · $0
Oven Won't Turn On 5 Causes, Ranked by What We Find
An oven that won't turn on is either getting no power, locked out, or has a failed safety part or control board. Below are the five causes we find on Twin Cities service calls, in order, and what each costs to fix.
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Reviewed by Mike Larson, Master Appliance Technician · 18+ yrs in-field
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Quick answer
Oven Won't Turn On
First check that control lock isn't on (hold the lock button 3–5 seconds), the clock is set after a power outage, and both halves of the oven's breaker are on. For gas ranges, make sure the gas valve behind the range is open. If it's still dead, the likely parts are the thermal fuse ($205–$285), the gas igniter ($245–$345), or the control board ($385–$525). Flat $149 trip fee credited on approval; $189 for built-in Thermador, Miele, and Viking. 1-year written warranty.
Root causes, ranked by what we find
Most-likely failures (by frequency)
2. Tripped breaker or blown fuse
What it is: Electric ranges use a 240V double breaker. If one half trips, the display may light but the oven won't heat.
Fix: Turn the breaker fully off, then on. If it trips again, have it checked.
Typical all-in: DIY · $0
3. Blown thermal fuse
What it is: A safety fuse cuts power if the oven overheats, often after a self-clean cycle. The oven goes completely dead.
Fix: Replace the thermal fuse and check the cooling fan and door lock.
Typical all-in: $205–$285 all-in
4. Gas supply or weak igniter (gas ovens)
What it is: Burners work but the oven won't light, or the igniter glows without a flame. A weak igniter can't open the gas valve.
Fix: Confirm gas supply, test igniter current, replace the igniter.
Typical all-in: $245–$345 all-in
5. Failed control board or touchpad
What it is: Dead or garbled display, buttons don't respond, or error codes like F1 or F9. Common after a surge or a self-clean cycle.
Fix: Test the board and touchpad; replace whichever has failed.
Typical all-in: $385–$525 all-in
Diagnostic order
How to check an oven that won't turn on (5-minute check)
1. Set the clock
After a power outage, set the clock — many ovens won't run until you do.
2. Turn off control lock
Hold the lock button 3–5 seconds.
3. Check the breaker
Turn the oven breaker fully off, then on.
4. Check the gas (gas ovens)
Make sure the valve behind the range is open and the stovetop burners light.
5. Call if it's still dead
It's likely the thermal fuse, igniter, or board. Most fixes are $205–$525 all-in.
FAQs
Common questions
Why won't my oven turn on?
Most often control lock is on, the clock needs setting after an outage, or a breaker has tripped. If those check out, a blown thermal fuse, weak igniter, or failed control board is likely.
Why did my oven stop working after self-clean?
Self-clean runs very hot and can blow the thermal fuse or damage the control board or door lock.
Why does my gas stovetop work but the oven won't light?
Usually the oven igniter is weak — it glows but not hot enough to open the gas valve.
How much does it cost to fix an oven that won't turn on?
Usually $205–$525 all-in. Thermal fuse $205–$285, gas igniter $245–$345, control board $385–$525. The trip fee is credited on approval.
Is it worth fixing an oven that won't turn on?
Almost always. Fuses and igniters are inexpensive compared with a new range.
Related coverage
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What will this cost?
Pricing & repair-cost pages
Trying to decide repair vs. replace? These pages break down real all-in pricing by brand, model class, and failure mode — so you know the number before we knock.