Bosch E15 — AquaStop tripped, won't fill, base pan flashing
Most common cause: Water in the base pan has lifted the AquaStop float and locked the inlet valve. The leak is upstream — most often the sump gasket, the drain pump volute O-ring, the spray-arm feed tube, or a cracked salt reservoir on European-spec 800-series units.
What we do: Tip the dishwasher 45° to drain the pan, dry, then dye-test under power. Replace the leaking OEM gasket / hose / pump as found and verify two full cycles with the pan dry.
$235–$425 all-in
Bosch E22 — dishes not clean, error 22 on display
Most common cause: Clogged or improperly seated filter assembly (cylindrical micro-filter on top of the sump). Bosch's recommended monthly filter clean almost never gets done; food paste cakes the screen and the wash-pump cavitates.
What we do: Pull, inspect, and either clean or replace the OEM filter assembly. Check the wash-pump impeller for debris. Show the homeowner the 60-second monthly clean.
$185–$265 all-in
Bosch E24 / E25 — won't drain, standing water at sump
Most common cause: E24 is a drain-path fault (kinked hose, plugged disposal knockout, clogged check valve), E25 is the drain pump itself reporting low flow. Bosch drain pumps fail at the impeller magnet coupling at year 6–9.
What we do: Test drain path first (free if it's a disposal knockout). Replace OEM drain pump on E25 and verify two drains.
$215–$365 all-in
Bosch dishes coming out wet — heat-pump units
Most common cause: Bosch 500 / 800 / Benchmark units use condensation drying (CrystalDry on Benchmark uses a zeolite mineral chamber) — no heating element. When dishes come out wet it's the drying fan, the zeolite blower, or the ECO board controlling them — not a heater.
What we do: Test fan / zeolite blower for current draw, replace OEM blower or ECO board as indicated. Confirm rinse-aid dispenser is loaded — empty rinse-aid is the #1 'won't dry' false alarm.
$245–$465 all-in
Bosch dishwasher won't start, no lights, dead
Most common cause: Failed power module (the ECO board on the right side of the door), door-latch switch wear, or a blown thermal fuse on the door wiring harness. Power module is the most common failure at year 7+.
What we do: Verify line voltage at the harness, test the latch switch and thermal fuse, replace the OEM power module if confirmed failed.
$285–$465 all-in