GE microwave runs but doesn't heat (H97 magnetron driver)
Most common cause: Failed magnetron-driver board on GE JVM, PVM, JNM, and Profile PVM OTR units — the board commands the high-voltage circuit and a single failed transistor stops the magnetron from firing while everything else (fan, light, turntable) keeps running.
What we do: OEM GE magnetron driver board replacement, then a one-cup water boil test to confirm full output. A failed magnetron itself is less common on GE than on Whirlpool/Maytag — we test before swapping the higher-cost part.
$245–$385 all-in
GE Profile / Café OTR vent fan won't shut off or runs by itself
Most common cause: Stuck humidity / temperature sensor on the underside of the OTR, or a failed relay on the main control board. The sensor reads excess heat from the cooktop and auto-starts the vent fan to protect the unit.
What we do: Clean and re-test the sensor first; replace the sensor or main control board if the false trigger persists. Most repairs finish in one visit.
$215–$345 all-in
GE microwave keypad partially dead or won't respond
Most common cause: Failed touch panel (membrane) or main control board. GE OTRs separate the touch panel from the smart board, so a partial-keypad failure is almost always the touch panel, not the smart board.
What we do: OEM GE touch panel replacement — bench-test every button before closing the unit. Smart board swap only if the panel tests good.
$265–$425 all-in
Monogram / Café built-in microwave or Advantium dead
Most common cause: Blown line fuse (15A ceramic on most GE built-ins), failed thermal cutout on the magnetron or cavity, or a failed door interlock switch shorting the monitor switch and blowing the line fuse. Common after a door slam.
What we do: Discharge the HV capacitor, test all three door interlocks as a set, replace any failed switch and the line fuse together. Never replace the line fuse without testing the switches — it'll blow again.
$235–$385 all-in
GE OTR microwave light won't shut off / stays on
Most common cause: Failed cooktop-light switch on the front of the OTR or a failed relay on the smart board. The light circuit is independent of the cooking circuit, so the microwave still works fine.
What we do: Test the switch first ($45 part); smart board swap only if the switch tests good.
$185–$285 all-in