1. Foreign object in chopper assembly (grinding during wash — most common)
What it is: Glass shards, fruit pits, fish bones, and chicken-bone fragments make it past the filter and end up in the chopper / hard-food disposer. Symptom: harsh grind during the wash phase that gets worse over weeks. Common on Bosch, KitchenAid, GE, and Whirlpool. ~4 in 10 dishwasher-noise calls.
Fix: Pull the lower rack, remove the spray arm and filter, open the sump and inspect the chopper. Extract debris, inspect chopper blade for cracks. Replace chopper assembly if blade is damaged.
Typical all-in: $165–$285 (extract) · $285–$385 (chopper replacement)
2. Drain pump impeller jam or failed motor (loud hum during drain)
What it is: A toothpick, plastic seal ring, or zip-tie fragment lodges between the impeller and pump housing. The motor hums but can't spin — eventually the motor overheats and trips. Common across every brand.
Fix: Cancel the cycle, pump out standing water, remove the drain pump (Bosch: bottom-access; KitchenAid / Whirlpool: tip the unit), extract debris, test motor. Replace pump if windings are open.
Typical all-in: $245–$385 all-in
3. Worn wash-pump bearing (high-pitched whine throughout wash)
What it is: The recirculation / wash pump bearing dries out and whines. Symptom: continuous high-pitched whine during the wash phase, audible even with the door closed. Common on KitchenAid / Whirlpool tall-tub units past year 7.
Fix: Remove and replace OEM wash-pump motor assembly (the bearing is not serviceable separately on most platforms). 60–90 minute job.
Typical all-in: $385–$525 all-in
4. Cracked spray-arm bearing or split spray arm (scraping / clicking)
What it is: The lower spray arm rides on a plastic bearing in the sump. When the bearing cracks, the arm wobbles and scrapes the chopper cover. Symptom: scraping or clicking that follows the rhythm of the spray-arm rotation.
Fix: Replace OEM spray-arm bearing and inspect the spray arm itself for hairline cracks. On Bosch the lower arm support and bearing are a single assembly.
Typical all-in: $165–$285 all-in
5. Water hammer at fill (loud knock in the walls when fill starts)
What it is: Not the dishwasher itself — the supply line. When the inlet valve closes suddenly, the standing water column shocks the pipes. Common in older Twin Cities homes without arrestors. Misdiagnosed as a dishwasher fault on ~1 in 10 calls.
Fix: Install an inline water-hammer arrestor on the dishwasher supply (under-sink). 15-minute fix.
Typical all-in: $95–$185 all-in
6. Failing inlet valve solenoid (buzz with slow / no fill)
What it is: The inlet-valve solenoid weakens — it can't open cleanly so it buzzes and fills slowly. Hard-water sediment in the inlet screen compounds the issue.
Fix: Shut supply, pull the inlet valve, rinse the screen, replace OEM inlet valve if the solenoid is buzzing or hot to touch.
Typical all-in: $245–$325 all-in
7. Loose or leaking sump-housing gasket (gurgle + small leaks under the unit)
What it is: The sump-housing gasket between the wash motor and the tub bottom dries out. Symptom: gurgle during drain, slow drip on the floor under the front-right corner. Common at year 9+ on KitchenAid / Whirlpool tall-tub.
Fix: Pull the unit, drop the wash motor, replace the sump gasket and any cracked sump-housing parts.
Typical all-in: $325–$465 all-in
8. Detergent door spring buzz (intermittent buzz mid-wash)
What it is: The detergent-dispenser door solenoid sticks and the spring chatters — a short buzz mid-wash. Cosmetic fault but the door may not open fully.
Fix: Replace OEM detergent dispenser assembly. 30-minute job.
Typical all-in: $165–$245 all-in