1. Clogged vent — a very common cause across every brand
What it is: Lint accumulation in the vent run (especially long runs to a roof or rim-joist termination) chokes airflow. The high-limit thermostat trips on overheat, cuts the element, and the dryer keeps tumbling with no heat. Symptom: clothes take 2+ cycles to dry, dryer top feels very hot, clothes smell scorched. It is a very common cause of no-heat calls, and a clogged vent is also a leading cause of dryer fires.
Fix: Disconnect, brush the full vent run from inside and outside, verify ≥1,500 ft/min airflow at the hood, test high-limit and cycling thermostats for reset. No parts needed if thermostats reset cleanly.
Typical all-in: $185–$265 all-in (includes vent cleaning + safety test)
2. Blown thermal fuse (electric & gas)
What it is: A one-shot safety fuse on the blower housing pops when vent restriction sends temperatures over spec. Symptom: dryer tumbles but no heat at all, ever. 29-inch Whirlpool / Kenmore / Maytag platforms are among the most frequent we service. We always replace the fuse AND fix the vent — replacing only the fuse means a repeat call within weeks.
Fix: Replace OEM thermal fuse, clean the vent run, verify high-limit and cycling thermostat operation in the same visit. Test full hot cycle before closing.
Typical all-in: $165–$245 all-in
3. Tripped half of the 240V breaker (electric dryers only)
What it is: Electric dryers run on a 240V double-pole breaker. The motor and controls run on one 120V leg, while the heating element needs both legs (240V). If only one half of the breaker trips, the drum still turns but there is no heat. Symptom: dryer turns on, tumbles, lights work — but no heat ever, even on a brand-new install or after a storm.
Fix: Reset both breakers fully (off then on). If it trips again under load, the dryer outlet or the breaker itself has failed — call an electrician, not a dryer tech. We diagnose voltage at the outlet on the first visit.
Typical all-in: DIY · $0 if it's a breaker reset
4. Failed heating element (electric)
What it is: The coiled nichrome heating element inside the heater box opens up after 6–12 years. Symptom: zero heat, often after a long stretch of slow drying. Whirlpool 29-inch, Samsung DV, and LG DLE platforms are common services. A failed element tests open for continuity with the dryer unplugged, which makes for a clean diagnosis.
Fix: Replace OEM heating element, inspect heater box for arc damage, replace cycling thermostat and high-limit at the same time (they're $20 parts and they've absorbed heat-cycles for years).
Typical all-in: $265–$385 all-in
5. Failed igniter or flame sensor (gas)
What it is: Gas dryers use a glow-bar igniter to light the burner. After 5–10 years it cracks or loses output. Symptom: motor runs, you hear no click, no flame, no heat. The flame sensor (radiant sensor) sits beside the burner and tells the gas valve when to open — a failed sensor blocks ignition even with a healthy igniter.
Fix: Test igniter resistance (should read 50–400Ω), test flame sensor for continuity, replace OEM igniter and/or flame sensor as found. Cycle 3 burner ignitions before closing.
Typical all-in: $245–$345 all-in
6. Failed high-limit thermostat or cycling thermostat
What it is: Both thermostats mount on the blower housing / heater box. The high-limit trips on overheat (and won't reset), the cycling thermostat cycles the element on and off to hold temperature. Symptom: heats briefly then quits, or never heats after a known-good vent. Common at year 8+ across all platforms.
Fix: Test both thermostats for continuity (cold) and reset behavior, replace OEM as found. Always paired with a vent inspection because thermostat failures are a downstream symptom of vent restriction.
Typical all-in: $185–$285 all-in
7. Failed control board (rare — last suspect)
What it is: If element / igniter / fuse / thermostats all test good, the main control board has failed to send the heat-call signal. It is uncommon — usually after a power surge or on Samsung / LG units past year 7 with moisture-corroded board pins.
Fix: A technician tests the board and replaces the OEM control board only when it is the confirmed fault. Live electrical testing is for a technician.
Typical all-in: $385–$525 all-in
