1. Clogged dryer vent tripped the thermal cutoff (most common)
What it is: Restricted airflow makes the high-limit or thermal cutoff (one-time fuse) open to protect the cabinet. The dryer still tumbles but never heats. ~60 % of Whirlpool 'no heat' calls.
Fix: Clear the full vent run (lint, kinked transition, bird nest), replace OEM thermal cutoff + high-limit kit, verify temp rise. Don't replace the cutoff alone — it'll trip again in 2–4 weeks.
Typical all-in: $215–$345 all-in
2. Failed heating element (electric WED / Cabrio / Duet)
What it is: 240V heating coil burns out — usually at the coil-end touching the insulator. Tests open. Common at year 6–10. Whirlpool's 279838 / 8544771 elements are the most-replaced parts on our truck.
Fix: Replace OEM element + high-limit + thermal cutoff as a kit (Whirlpool service bulletin requires it), inspect blower wheel for lint blockage, verify temp rise to 135°F+.
Typical all-in: $245–$385 all-in
3. Failed gas valve coils (gas WGD)
What it is: Igniter glows but gas valve never opens (or opens then drops out). Symptom: igniter glows orange 60 seconds then shuts off, dryer runs cool. Common at year 5–8.
Fix: Replace OEM gas valve coil kit (279834), verify gas valve opens and flame sustains, test temp rise.
Typical all-in: $245–$365 all-in
4. Worn or open igniter (gas WGD)
What it is: Silicon-carbide igniter has fractured or aged open. Symptom: no glow at all, no ignition, dryer tumbles cool.
Fix: Replace OEM igniter (279311 family), verify glow and flame establishment.
Typical all-in: $215–$315 all-in
5. Failed thermistor or control-board heat relay
What it is: Thermistor reads drum temperature; if it shorts or opens the board cuts heat to protect the load. Less commonly, the heat-circuit relay on the main board has welded open.
Fix: Run Whirlpool diagnostic mode, read thermistor resistance, replace OEM thermistor or main control board as confirmed.
Typical all-in: $245–$425 all-in