Whirlpool / KitchenAid / Maytag ice maker not making ice
Most common cause: Failed water inlet valve (most common), low household water pressure (under 20 psi will starve the fill), frozen fill tube at the back of the freezer, or a failed ice maker module that won't cycle on a forced harvest.
What we do: Pressure-test the line, swap the OEM inlet valve, thaw the fill tube, replace the modular ice maker if the harvest motor or thermostat has failed.
$185–$345 all-in
KitchenAid in-door ice maker (optics) producing no ice
Most common cause: Failed optic emitter or receiver board — the LED on the optic board fails, the control reads the bucket as full and stops production. Common on KRMF, KRFC, KRFF, KRFC, KBFN series.
What we do: OEM optic emitter + receiver board replacement, then bench-test the harvest cycle. The optic boards must be replaced as a matched pair.
$245–$385 all-in
Whirlpool ice maker leaking into the freezer
Most common cause: Cracked or split fill tube, failed inlet valve diaphragm, or an overflow because the fill thermostat (modular unit) is reading wrong and over-filling the mold.
What we do: Replace the fill tube and inlet valve, swap the module if the fill thermostat has drifted out of spec.
$215–$345 all-in
Whirlpool ice maker producing hollow / small cubes
Most common cause: Low fill volume — partially frozen fill tube, failing inlet valve, or low household water pressure. Sometimes a worn shutoff arm not fully resetting between cycles.
What we do: Confirm psi, thaw the fill tube, swap the valve if flow is below spec, adjust or replace the shutoff arm.
$185–$285 all-in
Ice maker stopped after fridge defrosted / power-cycled
Most common cause: Shutoff arm got bumped into the OFF position during defrost or moving food around. Looks like a failure, isn't one. Worth checking before paying for a trip.
What we do: Lift the wire shutoff arm back to the DOWN (ON) position and wait 24 hours. If still no ice, it's likely the module or inlet valve.
Free fix (call first)