1. Clogged dryer vent (most common — and a fire hazard)
What it is: Lint accumulates inside the 4" vent run between the dryer and the exterior cap. A restricted vent means moisture can't escape — the dryer runs hot but clothes stay damp. Symptom: clothes feel hot when the cycle ends but still damp, vent cap outside has weak airflow. Have the vent cleaned every 1–2 years; a vent that has gone many years without cleaning is a fire risk.
Fix: Professional vent clean from the dryer through the exterior cap. We carry rotary brushes and a HEPA vacuum. 45-minute service.
Typical all-in: $185–$245 vent clean · or DIY
2. Lint trap clogged with dryer-sheet residue (free fix)
What it is: Dryer sheets leave a waxy residue on the lint screen that you can't see. Even a clean-looking screen can restrict airflow if it's been used with dryer sheets for years. Symptom: run hot water through the screen — if water pools instead of flowing through, the residue is choking it.
Fix: Wash the lint screen with hot water and dish soap, scrub with a soft brush, air dry. Free. Repeat every 6 months.
Typical all-in: DIY · $0
3. Dirty moisture sensor bars (free fix)
What it is: Two metal bars inside the drum measure clothing moisture. Fabric softener residue coats them and the dryer thinks the clothes are dry when they're not. Symptom: cycle ends with damp clothes but the dryer reports complete. Affects almost every modern dryer with Auto Dry.
Fix: Wipe the moisture sensor bars with rubbing alcohol on a paper towel. 60 seconds. Free.
Typical all-in: DIY · $0
4. Heating element partial failure (electric dryers)
What it is: On dual-coil models, one of the two heating coils can fail while the other still works, so the dryer runs but produces only partial heat. Symptom: drum gets warm but never hot, cycle times double. A fully broken element means no heat at all. Common at year 8–12 on Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, Samsung, LG electric dryers.
Fix: Test the element for continuity. Replace OEM element + thermal fuse + high-limit thermostat as a pair (they wear together).
Typical all-in: $245–$345 all-in
5. Failed cycling thermostat
What it is: The cycling thermostat switches the heat on and off to maintain drum temperature. If it fails, the dryer never gets hot enough. Symptom: drum warm but not hot, every cycle runs to maximum time.
Fix: Replace OEM cycling thermostat and verify the drum reaches normal operating temperature.
Typical all-in: $215–$295 all-in
6. Gas valve coil failure (gas dryers)
What it is: Gas dryers use two solenoid coils on the gas valve. As they age, they cycle erratically — burner lights for 5 seconds, off for 30, on for 5. Symptom: gas burner cycling visibly through the inspection port, long dry times, sometimes a clicking igniter that never holds flame.
Fix: Replace OEM gas valve coil kit (always both coils). Verify burner stays lit for full call-for-heat.
Typical all-in: $245–$345 all-in
7. Airflow-restriction code (Samsung, LG)
What it is: Modern LG dryers estimate airflow from their temperature sensors and show d80 / d90 / d95 when the vent looks restricted; many Samsung dryers show a similar vent-restriction code (check the Samsung manual for your model's code meaning). The dryer may run cooler or stop early to protect itself. Symptom: an airflow code paired with long cycles. The vent is the usual cause.
Fix: Confirm the vent is clean and airflow is good first. If the code persists, test the thermistors and control board before replacing parts.
Typical all-in: $245–$345 all-in
