1. Burned-out bake element (electric ovens)
What it is: You can see a break, bubble, or burn spot on the element coil. Sometimes the broiler still works while the bake element is dead. Most common electric-oven failure at the 5–10 year mark.
Fix: Replace OEM bake element. Verify resistance (typically 19–30 ohms) and amp draw under load.
Typical all-in: $215–$315 all-in
2. Weak oven igniter (gas ovens)
What it is: Igniter glows orange but the gas valve never opens. The igniter has weakened past the amperage threshold (~3.2A) needed to open the safety valve. Universal failure point on Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, GE, and Samsung gas ovens at 5–8 years.
Fix: Replace OEM oven igniter (round or flat-style per platform). Verify amp draw and valve open.
Typical all-in: $245–$345 all-in
3. Failed temperature sensor (RTD)
What it is: Oven heats but runs 50–100°F off, or the display shows an F3/F4 error. The platinum RTD probe in the oven cavity has drifted out of spec or opened.
Fix: Replace OEM temperature sensor. Verify resistance at room temp (~1080Ω for most platforms) and calibrate.
Typical all-in: $185–$265 all-in
4. Failed electronic control board
What it is: Clock and timer work fine, but the bake/broil relay never closes. Oven shows no error but won't heat. Often follows a power surge or a self-clean cycle that overheated the rear electronics bay.
Fix: Replace OEM control board (ERC). Verify relay function and oven cycling.
Typical all-in: $345–$485 all-in
5. Tripped thermal fuse (post self-clean)
What it is: Oven was used in self-clean recently and now won't heat at all. The high-limit thermal fuse opened to protect the wiring from extreme heat — by design. Common failure pattern on Whirlpool, KitchenAid, and GE wall ovens.
Fix: Replace OEM thermal fuse, verify the underlying overheat cause (failed cooling fan, blocked vent), and re-test.
Typical all-in: $185–$255 all-in