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SYMPTOM · BURNER DEAD

Cooktop Burner Not Working Diagnosed by Cooktop Type

A dead cooktop burner is split by cooktop type: gas burners that click but won't light usually have a clogged or wet igniter; electric coil burners almost always have a failed element or burnt terminal block; induction zones that won't heat are usually pan-detection or a failed coil. The first diagnostic is the burner type. Below: the eight real causes we actually find, ranked by cooktop type, across every major brand including Wolf and Thermador.

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Reviewed by Mike Larson, Master Appliance Technician · 18+ yrs in-field · Last reviewed

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Quick answer

Cooktop Burner Not Working

Diagnose by burner type: (1) gas clicks but won't light → wet or food-clogged igniter (dry it, clean it — free), then failed spark module or burner-cap misaligned; (2) gas doesn't click at all → failed spark module ($245–$345); (3) electric coil dead → failed element ($165–$235) or burnt terminal block ($195–$285); (4) induction zone dead but others work → failed induction coil ($385–$525); (5) all induction zones dead → main control board or pan-detection error (F-code lookup). Most repairs $165–$385 all-in. Trip $149 waived on approval.

Root causes, ranked by what we find

Most-likely failures (by frequency)

1. Gas burner clicks but won't light — wet or clogged igniter (#1 gas cause, free fix)

What it is: Spills wick into the ceramic igniter electrode and short the spark to ground. Symptom: continuous clicking on one or more burners, no flame. Or: food debris fills the burner port and the gas can't reach the spark. Affects Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Samsung, LG, GE, Bosch, Wolf, Thermador — every gas brand.

Fix: Pull the burner cap and head. Dry the igniter electrode thoroughly (paper towel, or 1 hour drying time after a spill). Use a straightened paperclip to clear the burner ports. Re-seat the cap square. Free.

Typical all-in: DIY · $0

2. Gas burner doesn't click at all — failed spark module

What it is: The spark module sends high-voltage pulses to every igniter. When it fails, no burners spark; some platforms isolate to one burner output. Symptom: no clicking when you turn any burner knob to Light, or clicking on some burners and silence on others.

Fix: Replace OEM spark module. 45-minute repair behind the cooktop or under the burner box.

Typical all-in: $245–$345 all-in

3. Failed gas valve or burner head (lights but won't stay lit)

What it is: On flame-supervision cooktops (most modern gas + all sealed-burner units), the flame must be sensed within 4 seconds or the valve closes. Failed thermocouple, dirty flame sensor, or weak burner cap = ignite then go out. On older spark-only units, the valve solenoid itself fails.

Fix: Clean flame sensor and burner head, or replace OEM gas valve / thermocouple depending on platform.

Typical all-in: $245–$385 all-in

4. Electric coil element open or burnt (electric coil cooktops)

What it is: The coil element opens internally — sometimes with a visible burn spot, sometimes not. Symptom: one burner dead, others fine. Often after the coil arced during a boil-over.

Fix: Replace OEM coil element. 5-minute repair — pull the old coil, plug in the new.

Typical all-in: $165–$235 all-in

5. Burnt terminal block / receptacle (electric coil)

What it is: The metal receptacle the coil plugs into burns from years of arcing. Symptom: one burner dead even with a known-good coil; visible scorch marks on the receptacle.

Fix: Replace OEM coil receptacle + porcelain insulator. 30-minute repair.

Typical all-in: $195–$285 all-in

6. Failed surface-element switch (electric coil and radiant)

What it is: The infinite switch behind the knob fails — open contacts mean the element never energizes. Symptom: one zone dead at every setting, including High.

Fix: Replace OEM infinite switch / surface-element switch. 30-minute repair behind the control panel.

Typical all-in: $195–$285 all-in

7. Failed induction coil (induction cooktops)

What it is: The induction coil under the glass fails or the IGBT power transistor on its driver board burns out. Symptom: one zone shows F-code (F47, E5, U400 depending on brand) or just refuses to heat with a known-good induction-compatible pan. Affects Bosch, Wolf, Thermador, KitchenAid Pro, Samsung, LG induction platforms.

Fix: Replace OEM induction coil + driver board (sold as an assembly on most platforms). 90-minute repair through the cooktop bottom.

Typical all-in: $385–$525 all-in

8. Pan not induction-compatible (induction cooktops — free diagnostic)

What it is: Induction only works with ferrous pans — cast iron, magnetic stainless. Aluminum, copper, and most glass cookware won't heat at all. Symptom: cooktop powers on, zone selected, but no heat and often an error tone after 30 seconds.

Fix: Test with a magnet — if the magnet doesn't stick firmly to the pan bottom, it won't work on induction. Replace the cookware.

Typical all-in: DIY · $0

Diagnostic order

Diagnose a dead cooktop burner in 5 minutes

  1. 1. Gas: dry the igniter, clear the ports

    Pull the burner cap and head. Dry the white ceramic igniter with a paper towel. Use a paperclip to clear the gas ports. Re-seat the cap square. Try to light.

  2. 2. Gas: try every burner

    If clicking on all burners but no flame on one = that igniter or burner head. If no clicking at all on any burner = spark module ($245–$345).

  3. 3. Electric coil: swap a known-good coil

    Pull a working coil from another burner and plug it into the dead position. Lights = the original coil is bad ($165–$235). Still dead = terminal block or switch ($195–$285).

  4. 4. Induction: test the pan with a magnet

    Magnet sticks firmly = pan is induction-compatible. If not, replace the pan. If pan is compatible and zone still doesn't heat = coil/driver ($385–$525) or control board.

  5. 5. Read any F-code (induction)

    F47, E5, U400 depending on brand — note before calling. F-codes localize the fault to a specific coil or sensor and save diagnostic time.

  6. 6. Call if it persists

    Same-day windows weekdays before 2pm. Trip $149 waived on approval.

FAQs

Common questions

Why does my gas burner click but not light?

Wet or food-clogged igniter — 80% of these calls. Spills wick into the ceramic igniter and short the spark. Pull the burner cap, dry the white ceramic electrode thoroughly, clear the gas ports with a paperclip, re-seat the cap square. Free fix. If clicking continues with no flame after the igniter is dry and ports are clear, the burner head or valve has failed ($245–$385 repair).

Why won't my electric coil burner heat?

Two suspects in this order: (1) the coil element opened internally — swap a known-good coil from another burner to confirm ($165–$235 OEM coil); (2) the receptacle the coil plugs into has burnt from arcing ($195–$285 receptacle replacement). Less commonly: failed infinite switch behind the knob ($195–$285).

Why won't my induction cooktop heat?

First check the pan with a magnet — induction only works with ferrous pans. If the magnet sticks firmly and the zone still won't heat, the induction coil or its driver board has failed ($385–$525). Note any F-code on the display (F47, E5, U400) before calling — it tells us exactly which coil.

How much does it cost to fix a cooktop burner in Minneapolis?

Gas igniter clean: DIY $0. Spark module $245–$345. Gas valve / burner head $245–$385. Electric coil $165–$235. Terminal block $195–$285. Infinite switch $195–$285. Induction coil + driver $385–$525. Trip $149 waived on approval. Most repairs finish first visit with OEM truck stock on common platforms.

Is a dead gas burner dangerous?

If the igniter clicks but doesn't light, gas is flowing into the kitchen — yes, this is a safety issue. Turn the knob off immediately if the burner doesn't light within 4 seconds, ventilate the kitchen, and don't keep trying. Free DIY igniter clean usually fixes it; if not, schedule diagnostic same day.

Should I fix a single dead burner or replace the cooktop?

Fix it. The most expensive single-burner repair is $525 (induction coil + driver), a fraction of a new cooktop ($800–$3,500+ on Wolf/Thermador). Replacement only makes sense if the cooktop is over 15 years old AND has multiple cascading failures, or if the glass surface is shattered.

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