Central Minnesota Appliance RepairCMN Appliance
SYMPTOM · BURNER DEAD

Cooktop Burner Not Working

Diagnosed by Cooktop Type

A dead cooktop burner is split by cooktop type: gas burners that click but won't light usually have a clogged or wet igniter; electric coil burners almost always have a failed element or burnt terminal block; induction zones that won't heat are usually pan-detection or a failed coil. The first diagnostic is the burner type. Below: the eight real causes we actually find, ranked by cooktop type, across every major brand including Wolf and Thermador.

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Quick answer

Cooktop Burner Not Working: the short answer

Diagnose by burner type: (1) gas clicks but won't light → wet or food-clogged igniter (dry it, clean it — free), then failed spark module or burner-cap misaligned; (2) gas doesn't click at all → failed spark module ($245–$345); (3) electric coil dead → failed element ($165–$235) or burnt terminal block ($195–$285); (4) induction zone dead but others work → failed induction coil ($385–$525); (5) all induction zones dead → main control board or pan-detection error (F-code lookup). Most repairs $165–$385 all-in. The $149 trip fee is credited toward the repair when you approve it.

Common causes

Common failures

1. Why does my gas burner click but not light? Wet or clogged igniter (most common gas cause, free fix)

What it is: Spills wick into the ceramic igniter electrode and short the spark to ground. Symptom: continuous clicking on one or more burners, no flame. Or: food debris fills the burner port and the gas can't reach the spark. Affects Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Samsung, LG, GE, Bosch, Wolf, Thermador — every gas brand.

Fix: Pull the burner cap and head. Dry the igniter electrode thoroughly (paper towel, or 1 hour drying time after a spill). Use a straightened paperclip to clear the burner ports. Re-seat the cap square. Free.

Typical all-in: DIY · $0

2. Gas burner doesn't click at all — failed spark module

What it is: The spark module sends high-voltage pulses to every igniter. When it fails, no burners spark; some platforms isolate to one burner output. Symptom: no clicking when you turn any burner knob to Light, or clicking on some burners and silence on others.

Fix: Replace OEM spark module. 45-minute repair behind the cooktop or under the burner box.

Typical all-in: $245–$345 all-in

3. Failed gas valve or burner head (lights but won't stay lit)

What it is: Some cooktops (many European-built models, including some Bosch and Thermador units) have a flame-failure thermocouple that closes the gas valve if no flame is sensed; most standard U.S. cooktops do not, so gas keeps flowing until the knob is turned off. A failed thermocouple, dirty flame sensor, or poorly seated burner cap can make a burner ignite and then go out. On spark-only units, the valve itself can fail.

Fix: Clean flame sensor and burner head, or replace OEM gas valve / thermocouple depending on platform.

Typical all-in: $245–$385 all-in

4. Electric coil element open or burnt (electric coil cooktops)

What it is: The coil element opens internally — sometimes with a visible burn spot, sometimes not. Symptom: one burner dead, others fine. Often after the coil arced during a boil-over.

Fix: Replace OEM coil element. 5-minute repair — pull the old coil, plug in the new.

Typical all-in: $165–$235 all-in

5. Burnt terminal block / receptacle (electric coil)

What it is: The metal receptacle the coil plugs into burns from years of arcing. Symptom: one burner dead even with a known-good coil; visible scorch marks on the receptacle.

Fix: Replace OEM coil receptacle + porcelain insulator. 30-minute repair.

Typical all-in: $195–$285 all-in

6. Failed surface-element switch (electric coil and radiant)

What it is: The infinite switch behind the knob fails — open contacts mean the element never energizes. Symptom: one zone dead at every setting, including High.

Fix: Replace OEM infinite switch / surface-element switch. 30-minute repair behind the control panel.

Typical all-in: $195–$285 all-in

7. Failed induction coil (induction cooktops)

What it is: The induction coil under the glass fails or the IGBT power transistor on its driver board burns out. Symptom: one zone shows an error code (such as F47 or E5, depending on brand) or just refuses to heat with a known-good induction-compatible pan. Affects Bosch, Wolf, Thermador, KitchenAid Pro, Samsung, LG induction platforms.

Fix: Replace OEM induction coil + driver board (sold as an assembly on most platforms). 90-minute repair through the cooktop bottom.

Typical all-in: $385–$525 all-in

8. Pan not induction-compatible (induction cooktops, free to check)

What it is: Induction only works with ferrous pans — cast iron, magnetic stainless. Aluminum, copper, and most glass cookware won't heat at all. Symptom: cooktop powers on, zone selected, but no heat and often an error tone after 30 seconds.

Fix: Test with a magnet — if the magnet doesn't stick firmly to the pan bottom, it won't work on induction. Replace the cookware.

Typical all-in: DIY · $0

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Diagnostic order

Diagnose a dead cooktop burner in 5 minutes

  1. 1. Gas: dry the igniter, clear the ports

    Pull the burner cap and head. Dry the white ceramic igniter with a paper towel. Use a paperclip to clear the gas ports. Re-seat the cap square. Try to light.

  2. 2. Gas: try every burner

    If clicking on all burners but no flame on one = that igniter or burner head. If no clicking at all on any burner = spark module ($245–$345).

  3. 3. Electric coil: swap a known-good coil

    Pull a working coil from another burner and plug it into the dead position. Lights = the original coil is bad ($165–$235). Still dead = terminal block or switch ($195–$285).

  4. 4. Induction: test the pan with a magnet

    Magnet sticks firmly = pan is induction-compatible. If not, replace the pan. If pan is compatible and zone still doesn't heat = coil/driver ($385–$525) or control board.

  5. 5. Read any F-code (induction)

    Codes such as F47 or E5 depend on the brand — note the code before calling and check your cooktop's manual for its meaning. A code can point to a specific coil or sensor and save diagnostic time.

  6. 6. Call if it persists

    Same-day appointments are available, 7am–9pm every day; call early. The $149 trip fee is credited toward the repair when you approve it.

FAQs

Cooktop Burner Not Working: FAQs

Why does my gas burner click but not light?

The most common cause is a wet or food-clogged igniter. Spills wick into the ceramic igniter and short the spark. Pull the burner cap, dry the white ceramic electrode thoroughly, clear the gas ports with a paperclip, re-seat the cap square. Free fix. If clicking continues with no flame after the igniter is dry and ports are clear, the burner head or valve has failed ($245–$385 repair).

Why won't my electric coil burner heat?

Two suspects in this order: (1) the coil element opened internally — swap a known-good coil from another burner to confirm ($165–$235 OEM coil); (2) the receptacle the coil plugs into has burnt from arcing ($195–$285 receptacle replacement). Less commonly: failed infinite switch behind the knob ($195–$285).

Why won't my induction cooktop heat?

First check the pan with a magnet — induction only works with ferrous pans. If the magnet sticks firmly and the zone still won't heat, the induction coil or its driver board has failed ($385–$525). Note any error code on the display (such as F47 or E5) before calling — it helps point to the coil or board at fault.

How much does it cost to fix a cooktop burner in Minneapolis?

Gas igniter clean: DIY $0. Spark module $245–$345. Gas valve / burner head $245–$385. Electric coil $165–$235. Terminal block $195–$285. Infinite switch $195–$285. Induction coil + driver $385–$525. The $149 trip fee is credited toward the repair when you approve it.

Is a dead gas burner dangerous?

It can be. If a burner clicks but doesn't light, gas can be flowing — turn the knob off right away and don't keep trying. If you smell gas, leave the house, don't touch switches or flames, and call your gas utility (CenterPoint Energy or Xcel Energy) or 911 from outside, then call us. If there is no gas smell, drying the igniter often fixes it; if not, schedule a diagnostic.

Should I fix a single dead burner or replace the cooktop?

Fix it. The most expensive single-burner repair is $525 (induction coil + driver), a fraction of a new cooktop ($800–$3,500+ on Wolf/Thermador). Replacement only makes sense if the cooktop is over 15 years old AND has multiple cascading failures, or if the glass surface is shattered.

Related coverage

Keep reading

See all cooktop and range repair services.

What will this cost?

Pricing & repair-cost pages

Trying to decide repair vs. replace? These pages break down real all-in pricing by brand, model class, and failure mode — so you know the number before we knock.

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4.5★ · 900+ reviews · $149 trip fee credited to the repair · 1-year warranty